Rajasthan is what happens to India when the handbrake comes off. Careening through its own romantic clichés — castles brooding over remote kingdoms, camel caravans swaying across the desert, domed pavilions in lotus-studded lakes — the region is a runaway exotic. Everything in Rajasthan tends to excess — landscapes, colours, love affairs, moustaches.

So naturally, the horses were glamorous types. Horses too here have a caste system, and the Marwari horses of Rajasthan are Kshatriya — warrior horses — the most noble rank. They are slim and sleek-coated. Their curved ears almost meet at the tips. They had long eyelashes and a certain louche charm. Noted for their speed, their endurance and their courage, Marwaris prance through Rajasthani mythology as heroic figures. I was setting off on a ride across northern Rajasthan and I was riding a legend.

Our leader and guide was almost as regal as his horses. Kanwar Raghuvendra Singh, known to everyone as Bonnie, was a son of the ruling house of Dundlod, and every inch the dashing Rajput prince. With his handsome features and his elegant moustache, he might have stepped from an 18th-century miniature where he would almost certainly have been dispatching enemies in a silk frock and pearls.

We began in Kaku, a desert village some miles to the south of Bikaner in Rajasthan. Under a cloudless sky, the morning smelt of dry grass and dung fires. Much of Rajasthan is a marginal landscape poised uneasily between arid wastes of scrub and tenuous irrigated fields, fenced with ramparts of thorn bush. Sand blew away beneath our hooves. Peacocks wandered about, showing off their tails, while goats trailed through the shade looking for lunch. In the middle distance, chinkara antelope bounded away.

The women of these regions wore layered lehanga skirts so brightly coloured they were in danger of frightening the horses. Their jewellery was the family pension — heavy silver bracelets and anklets, necklaces and earrings like Christmas ornaments, rings on their fingers and toes. When they moved they clanged like old-fashioned cash registers.

Lady in Rajasthan India


Compared to their wives, the husbands looked like family servants. Having blown all their money on their wives’ jewellery, most of them couldn’t run to a decent shirt. Fortunately, their turbans rescued their dignity.

Turbans are to Rajasthanis what cars are to Americans — they are big, they are brash, and they say a lot about their owners. In the world of turbans, size matters. 120 square feet of cloth is barely average; some of the better endowed are rumoured to be over 80 foot long. Huge, bulbous, gravity-defying creations, they tend to dwarf their occupants. Like their wives’ skirts, the colours were outrageous. In these beige landscapes, the turbans were like beacons, shining across the vast expanses long before the wearer himself hoves into view.

The first day’s ride brought us to Khari where the villagers seemed to have mistaken us for visiting royalty. Crowds had gathered for our arrival. A band played, massed ranks of schoolchildren cheered and waved and a row of dignitaries lined the entranceway into the walled yard where our tents were pitched beneath coloured banners.

Camp-life was full of unexpected luxuries. Cocktails were served with a military punctuality, meals came in three courses, and our tents were the sort of thing Alexander the Great might have pitched on the banks of the Indus — spacious, decorative, and hinting at regal grandeur. The greatest luxury was a small trailer, parked discreetly apart from the tents. Fitted out with a hot shower and a flush toilet, it banished any illusions that we were roughing it. Every morning we rode out of camp leaving tents, luggage and breakfast dishes to the staff and every evening we arrived at the new site to find the camp magically transported and afternoon tea ready. At some shady spot between the two, a jeep met us with cool drinks and a hot lunch.

Indian man with moustache in Rajasthan, India


In the evenings Bonnie regaled us with stories of the adventures of his youth, of Rajasthani traditions and customs, of episodes from its tall-tale history. Under a sky of tremulous stars, we entered a very Indian conspiracy in which the line between history and legend was happily blurred.

For five days we rode through a spacious Rajasthani landscape. In this monochrome country, the only colours were the caryatid figures of women carrying water jugs home from the wells, drifting back and forth across the dry prairie like distant sails of pink and blue and yellow. In the villages women and children watched us pass from the flat rooftops. The children called after us — Ta-ta — the only English phrase to have survived here from the distant days of the Raj.

At Sinod we were invited to lunch by the local member of parliament. He was an elderly gentleman with a blue woolly cap, a silk waistcoat and a riotous case of nasal hair. He told us the history of his family, who had ruled these regions long before elections were necessary, while the entire village filled his courtyard for the excellent entertainment of Watching Foreigners Eat.

In the late afternoon, we reached the narrow lanes of Khimsar, a world of shabby houses, veiled women, grubby urchins and braying donkeys. Then suddenly we turned through an imposing gateway, trotted up a gravelled drive between trimmed hedges and beds of roses, and dismounted in front of the saffron-coloured walls of the old fort. A moment later we were being ushered into a long marbled room with cushioned divans, latticed windows, and a bath big enough for an afternoon nap. This was our only night under a solid roof.

Gadi Sagar Gate, Jaisalmer, Rajastan India


Beyond Khimsar the landscapes grew wilder and more arid. Convoys of sand dunes marched through the fields, their sensual slopes a contrast to the rough textures of the surrounding scrub. The horses padded silently through the soft waves of sand. The dunes were another country, elevated, empty, pristine, surreal. From their heights, we had long views over the country we had crossed, strewn with thorn trees, deranged camels and the distant coloured marks of women in their bright skirts. At night in the lee of the dunes, our camps were canopied by stars. In the mornings passing musicians wandered into camp to serenade us.

On the sixth morning a minibus, as welcome as a prison van, arrived to take us away. We said goodbye to Bonnie, to the staff who had kept us in regal quantities of food and drink, and to the horses we had come to love.

Three hours later we were in Jaisalmer, a medieval walled town in the heart of the desert. Tourist brochures called it the most romantic place in Rajasthan. But among the tour buses and the hectoring guides, its glamour was lost on us. We had already experienced the most romantic place in romantic Rajasthan — the saddle of a Marwari horse.

Woman in the desert in Rajasthan, India


We hope this account of Stanley Stewart’s trip has piqued your curiosity about Rajasthan, its culture, people and about India general.

Curious Travel can assist with tailor-made trips to Rajasthan as well as other areas across India. We design and operate trips by working closely with the best local suppliers that fully respect and work with these communities. Contact us below to request a conversation or further information.

Enjoyed this story? Check out other stories from Stanley Stewart: from Australia, Vietnam, Portugal, Ecuador, and Turkey

Stanley Stewart is a British writer, who is the author of three travel books: Old Serpent Nile, Frontiers of Heaven and In the Empire of Genghis Khan about journeys to the source of the Nile, through China to Xinjiang province, and across Mongolia by horse. The last two books both won the Thomas Cook Travel Book Award, in 1996 and 2001 respectively, making Stewart the only writer, with Jonathan Raban, to have won this prestigious award twice. He is a contributing editor at Conde Nast Traveller UK. His work appears in various periodicals including the Sunday Times, the Daily Telegraph, and National Geographic Traveler, and has been included in numerous anthologies on both sides of the Atlantic. In 2008 he was named the Magazine Writer of the year. He was born in Ireland, grew up in Canada, and has spent most of his adult life in the UK

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